Friday, May 21, 2010

Day 4 - A road through Mountains

I think I would start off by congratulating myself for the dexterous feat I accomplished just to facilitate this blog post. After all managing to balance a laptop in the confined space of a bus is no mean feat for an Obelix'esque person like me. Really glad to find Airtel range here.

The bus has now stopped at Srinagar, a nice little town by the banks of Alakananda River. All today morning I had been looking to find a place with decent range to post this. No idea how range would be at my destination and besides yesterday's accounts must be stored.

Yesterday I reached New Delhi Railway Station at 1.30 PM in the afternoon. It was blistering hot. I had forgotten how hot New Delhi could be in May, but of course I was reminded of that tiny little fact in a mega hurry. After hurriedly jumping out of train lugging my backpack and grip my first order of business was to find out where the Utkal Express is coming. This would be a true test of the punctuality and truthfulness of the IRCTC website. Having reached Delhi Railway Station at 1330 at 1445 I was to board this train to reach my next point in this journey, Haridwar.

The first person I saw at the platform was a Police guy. I asked him and all I received was a confused stare. Rather than worrying about whether I had spoken in Hindi or English I immediately hailed Tea vendor walking by. Now this person was more helpful and soon I made my mad dash across the station to the platform where the train had to come.

Thank God that I was well in time. 30 minutes of waiting later the train slowly chugged into the platform and was comfortably seated in my Sleeper Class compartment. Though there was no chance of me having to sleep for this leg of journey I had guessed that it would be better to get a proper sleeper ticket than waging my health and sanity in a sitting or general compartment.

The train ride from New Delhi to Haridwar was rather unremarkable. Field stretching as far as eye can see, glimpses of rural agrarian life that quite never change with the passage of centuries, though occasional SUVs stand testament to the prosperity of these areas.

It was night about 8.45 when I reached Haridwar Railway Station. Along with the cohorts of commuters returning home after a day of work I got off the station. This would be the end of my train borne travel in this trip.

Passing by a dried up pool with a massive bust of Lord Shiva looking towards the distant mountains, I crossed the road and walked the few meters to the Central Bus Stand. At this time the station was idling to a halt. I walked up to the office and enquired about the first bus to my destination - 5 AM. Second Bus? 6 AM.

Well nothing to be done other than try to get a few hours of sleep. Having planned the trip in some detail I had already made enquiries at the Rahi Motel, a government run facility which is quite near the Railway Station and Bus Stand. Since this is a Government run hotel and since I would be there for barely a few hours, I did not book myself a room, rather I booked myself a dormitory bed. After having a hurried dinner at the attached restaurant, I took a bath in the frigid water and was off to sleep. Having secured my bags with chains to the bed's foot, my head barely made contact with the pillow when the "Evil Laughter" ringtone of my mobile phone woke me up at 4 AM in the morning.

Hardly comprehending where I was and what I was doing, in the memory of being in my bed at home I was about to deactivate the alarm and get back to sleep when my awareness caught up. Yesterday I had arranged with the attender with a reminder of 10 rupees to wake me at 0415 if I did not wake up by myself. A 0415 the helpful savant was promptly in the dorm and I thanked him with another 10 rupees which I hope made his day, because he for one set off happily to fetch me some tea.

Since hot water would be available only at 7AM, I had another bath in the freezing cold water. My chattering teeth and shivering limbs would have woken up the other people sleeping but I dressed fast and welcomed with great thanks the steaming cup of cardamom tea the attender brought me. At 0430 I had settled my dues and walked the few meters to the Bus stand.

The sweater I was wearing and the scarf I had around my head was very helpful in the early morning cold. Breathing light puffs of air reminiscent of the smoking I quit some months back, I walked into the station, bought the ticket standing in a short queue and boarded the bus.

Having reconned the route through the beloved Google Earth I knew that a window seat towards the right would be the best. Unfortunately the seat, though comfortably cushioned did not have much leg space. Condemning myself to a long drive with cramped legs I stowed my grip on the over head luggage area and kept my backpack under my knees and waited for the bus to start.

Breakfast at Devprayag was picturesque affair. The town at the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alakananda, two legendary tributaries of River Ganga was first seen as the road wound by a terraced hill. Nestled at the foothills of green clad mountain, this is the point from which River Ganga officially is formed from its main tributaries. The drive towards the town gave several beautiful vantages which made me bemoan my woeful lack of a good camera. Somehow I knew that the pitiable camera on my Karbonn K10, the poor man's Blackberry or the poor man's Koratty (QWERTY) phone would not do justice to this vision. The incredibly tasty Poori Masala at the bus's breakfast stop was a fitting accompaniment to the beautiful town.

Several more kilometers of picturesque mountain roads, with the River Alakananda to the right and sheer walls of mountains to the left now I am here at Srinagar. A rather unremarkable North Indian Thali meal having been consumed now I am sitting in my seat waiting for the bus to start. I am halfway on the last leg of my onward journey, a journey of 312 km of which around 185 kilometers is still ahead of me.

I am sure that this last leg would be the most picturesque of my travel.

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