Wayanad Ride - Day Two

Sleep is the ultimate rejuvinator. As I woke up at around 0730 on Saturday, the 25th of June, 2011 all the aches and pains from the last day's riding had vanished and it was with a veritable briskness in step that I went down to the cafetaria for coffee. A refreshing bath also brought me thoroughly into the realm of the awake and now the question prominent on my mind was - "When do we start riding?" "Where are we riding?". Deciding to get ready early I was nearly getting suited up when I suddenly became aware that our stalwart leaders were still sound asleep and there were some more riders from Bangalore who had to reach Bathery.

Time was whiled away getting acquainted with xBHP'ians from other states and also getting to know better my fellow riders from yesterday, but an undertone of impatience to get the Hunk revved up and on road remained.

At 11 o'clock the bikes started coming off their stands as we started getting ready for the ride. As John gave a pre ride brief about our destination being Banasura Dam and information about the lead and sweep bikers, the throttle started growling in impatience to let itself rip on to the Wayanad twisties. Some photo snaps later the G2G ride was on its way as in a line astern formation we took to the roads.

The sheer thrill of riding in formation was something that I had never experienced before. Weaving in and out of traffic like a multi colored fire breathing serpeant our column rode out of Sultan Bathery. Out of the town we really started ripping the roads as even 60s and 70s became a faint memory as even us below 80s started maintaining pace nearing 80. But the 90 plussers became even more far ahead with the formation agreed upon forgotten in the thrill of the ride.

As we passed Kalpetta, the district headquarters of Wayanad, we realized that a group of us have totally lost our way. Stopping by a junction marked towards Ootty and Calicut we stopped to regain our bearings. A few calls to Swas and others later we realized that the route we were on is an alternate route to Banasura Dam, with the main shorter route being through a deviation right in the middle of Kalpetta town. After tanking up our bikes at a nearby fuel station we carried on with the ride to Banasura Dam.

The sights were simply spectacular with the cloud clad mountains providing a scintillating backdrop for our ride. Roads were of superb condition except for patches of craters and reasonable speed could be maintained. As we took the deviation to Banasura dam, however speed was reduced drastically. Curves upon curves brought us to the sight of landslides blocking various parts of the road and the narrow yet good roads were also ever present sources of surprise vehicles coming from the other side. By this time rain also was pouring reducing whatever traction the tyres had. As the rain started getting heavier some of my fellow riders stopped underneath trees or whatever shelters they could find but I kept riding on. Visor half closed, I was truly enjoying the ride in the rain. Monsoon time is when Kerala is at its most beautiful and if you cannot enjoy riding in rain, you are missing Kerala at its best. The speed was barely 40 kmph but I was having the time of my life.

As I reached a trijunction indicating 1.6 kms to Banasura dam, I saw several riders stopped by a tea shop for tea. Resting for some time to get the rain numbed bodies warmed up with Tea and hot banana pakodas and for the dragons amongst us to take the breath of death we pushed on for the short ride to Banasura dam.

At the dam we were faced with the unwelcome fact that the path to the dam can not be rode upon and we had to walk a few heights to reach the dam proper. After debating the pros and cons amongst everyone we finally started walking. Rain, unstable Wayanad clay and my innate clumsiness ensured that I would be at my most concentrated best for the walk. Wearing the riding jacket, the helmet, the gloves, the knee guards and the boots we had to walk a ways to a flight of steps and then navigate several scores of mossy and slipper steps to reach the top of the dam. Sure, I was wearing enough protection to ensure that any fall would not be very damaging but still my awareness of my generously proportioned girth made me walk slowly and steadily to the top.

As I reached the top I let out a yell of triumph for once again conquering heights and believe me for a person of my physique it is a challenge. The rain had not let down so it was with visible trepidation that many of my fellow riders dared to take out their cameras from multi layered cocoon of protection. The brisk wind flowing from the reservoir tempted one to take off the helmet and whenever I did that the head was drenched in the steady rain.

After getting our breath back and thoroughly mesmerized by the scenic vistas we trekked down to the tea stall at the base of the dam. As the group waited for everyone to rejoin I happened to notice a signboard indicating Meenmutty Waterfall, 2kms away. Bored as I was with much walking and no riding I rode out to this destination. The narrow road up to the Meenmutty waterfall was a pleasure of another kind entirely. The narrow rain slick road was of a very steep incline of the type I was encountering after a very long time. Revving up at 2nd and occasionally 1st gear my Hunk climbed up the narrow road going through residential areas presenting additional hazards of its own kind. As I reached the top I was faced with another parking lot and a further path to climb on foot. Compulsorily lazy as I am I did an immediate about turn and rode down to the Banasura Dam. Hearing my account a few other riders set off to visit the waterfalls, which as our friend Naveen described was spectacularly beautiful too, but not more as we started our return ride to Kalpetta where we hoped to find some source for lunch. Little did we know that time has slipped to 4 PM by then.

Return ride to Kalpetta was through the main road and as I followed Swas down the route I realized that the road which I cam in was much better scenically and tarmac wise. Reaching Kalpetta we raided the Hotel Woodlands and thoroughly clogged up its parking areas with our bikes. However the proprietors of the restaurant informed our growling bellies that all food was over. Setting up an agreement to prepare food for 36 riders within 30 minutes we waited our while in wait for the food.

After a barely satiating lunch, one group of riders returned to Bathery and the hotel while another group of us set out to visit the Pookote Lake. Reaching the tourist area smack in the middle of a tropical rain forest setting we were only 15 minutes after the official closing time. However the friendly authorities let us in ( after all they would be making close to 500 rupees in ticket sales in one go!) and we whiled away some time by the lake side watching the returning boats. Some disgusting simian antics and a short walk around the lake later we returned to our rides and as dusk started setting in started our return ride. Thankfully rain was little was we drove down the darkened roads to Sultan Bathery. Speeds maintained at around 65-70 dropped immediately to 50-55 as darkness fell.

As we reached back at our Hotel in Sultan Bathery a slight feeling of anti climax was marring the more joyous memories of the ride. Despite a whole day available for us we were able to ride hardly 125 kms. In many ways the day saw my expectations of a group ride reach its target and at times way below it.

By the time I shed my riding gear I had decided that for this G2G my group ride is over. The next day my return would be solo. I received information that a cousin was staying at a resort in Thirunelly and scouring of Google Maps and suggestions from Praveen and Vineeth made me choose Periya pass as a possible route.

Bone tired I said my good bye to all friends old and new who I met during the G2G. Though the riding aspect of the G2G was disappointing for me, the camaraderie part of getting to meet fellow bikers who share the same passion with you is indeed something that makes all the suffering acceptable. To meet with these band of brothers, to ride with them as a pack, even if it is only for a short kilometers I am now ready to suffer the hardships of group riding.

However be things as it may, the biker in me was still yearning to crunch the miles and wander around on two wheels and thus deciding to do the solo ride back home next day with a "slight" detour I went to sleep early. I missed the group photo sessions but not to worry, my memories of the G2G are seared deep into my soul. Camaraderie and brotherhood are welcome things, but at heart I am a solitary rider and for the ride yet more sacrifices were made.

Wayanad Ride - Day One

Imagine a group of men climbing up Asia's second largest earthen dam clad head to toe in heavy riding gear in continuously pouring rainfall. Imagine going on a trek in wet and unstable Wayanad clay soil while wearing heavy armored jackets and knee guards biting into your legs. Imagine the sheer awesomeness of 30 odd bikes revving past you in line astern formation, all with riders in full safety gear. If this sounds crazy, read no further. If this tickles your fancy, read on, for you, my friend are attuned with the spirit of biking.

The day started for me at around 3 AM as after a fidgety sleep racked by anxiety and thrill for the day's ride I woke and got ready for the ride. Saddle Bag had been backed earlier itself and only last minute stuff remained. As per a call received at around 0415 from Swas I contacted Titus and decided to meet up at North Fort Gate Junction in Tripunithura ( My home town).

The potent for the monsoon ride was quite good as I rode down from home regaled by a light drizzle and in a spirit of things to come our dear friend Titus was late by a few minutes. Together we rode upto the IBP Pump at Edapally, the designated rendezvous from which the plan was to start at 5 AM. 5 AM passed and went and then 6 AM and so forth. Fully decked up in riding gear, a couple of us waited out for the organizers and other riders to come up. A slight electrical fault in Jayamohan brother's Pulsar and an unimaginable wrong turn by Noel Don later we finally started out at around 0745. By now the rain had steadied into a constant affair and the line of 16 odd bikes revving past in the morning air must have brought quite a sense of wonderment in passers by as evident from their slacked out jaws and constant referrals to each of ours' brightly lit head lamps.

Well designed plans had been made earlier for two teams of 8 bikes, but all came to naught as we decided to just go as a group. Even then soon two adhoc teams emerged, the 90 plussers and the 80 minussers, with yours truly in the slower group. Though it had been barely half an hour since we started riding our spirits were quite low as it was giving a true reflection of the status of our own gastric system. Our longing for food was finally addressed as the lead riders stopped at a place near Triprayar called Valapad where we all surprised a little roadside fast food joint with our remorseless hunger. Our sheer joy of smelling food was only matched by the bright twinkle in the manager's eye as he sensed a jackpot morning for his business, a guess he did not have to correct as we all tucked in mightily. Despite rains forcing some of the riders eating outside to run for cover carrying their plates, it was a good meal which energized us for the ride ahead.

Starting again in due order we continued down NH17, the Edapally - Panvel highway which soon got confusing in its route as it went through the towns of Kodungallur and Kunnamkulam. Nearing Chavakkad we decided not to go via the Ponnani route and instead follow NH17 via Kunnamkulam where I distinctly remember me being almost the last in the pack. Riding through steadily falling sheet rain my onus was far less on speed and more on just moving forward and avoid the perils of the maddeningly fast traffic on the Trichur-Calicut stretch. Fully expecting to see the lead riders waiting for us slow turtles at some joint ahead, imagine my surprise at seeing all the 90 plussers coming from my rear!! The equation was totally bonkering for me and was only solved later in the day when we analyzed some crazy traffic snafus at Kunnamkulam which took the 90 plussers on an unnecessary detour.

After regrouping in the middle of the highway in the streams of water we finally set off. The further ride upto Calicut was more or less uneventful except for a point after Kuttipuram where I had to stop and rest for a while owing to a developing cramp in my right thigh. The knee guard I put over my jeans and under my rain pants was really constricting free movements and me and Titus who graciously agreed to wait for me carried on with the ride. Our lunch stop had been at Calicut, through some stretches of rides of which I have barely any recollection due to the pain in my leg. At the NH17 Bypass junction at Calicut we stopped for lunch and met up with the remaining Kerala xbhp'ians like Sreejith Krishnan and Vineeth. After a mediocre lunch and duly refreshed we set out for our final stop for the day, Sultan Bathery in Wayanad. Riding in formation again, we xBHP'ians wove our way in and out through the various speed breakers and traffic on the Calicut bypass road to finally get onto the Wayanad road. The roads went immediately narrower but degraded not at all in terms of tarmac quality. It was a delightful stretch of groovy twisties and stretches of straight to get the revs high. As we neared the town of Adivaram the looming peaks of the Thamarassery Churam (Pass) started intimidating me. I had not had much experience in Ghat roads except for short stretches in the Vazachal - Valparai so imagine my excitement as I reached the first of nine hair pin curves on this mountain pass made legendary in the anecdotes of a late comedian of malayalam movies, Kuthiravattam Pappu. The roads were severely cratered, at certain instances I really feared for my tyres as the rubble and exposed rocks were sharp to tear huge chunks out of the rubber. Thanks to the Almighty nothing spoiled our fun. Resting for a moment after the ninth hair pin we took some pictures and resumed our ride. The ride henceforth was again eventful as we negotiated the comparatively milder twisties of Vythiri, Kalpetta and Meenangadi on the approaches to Sultan Bathery.  As dusk started approaching our various aches and sores started being more evident but before dusk we reached Sultan Bathery and after a short snafu on my part for being over reliant on Google Maps we finally reached our halt camp for the G2G, Issac's Hotel Regency. Getting off the bike had been hard but the beds in the room were extremely soft and comfy. After a sumptuous meal where we utilized the utmost and almost bankrupted the hotel for the buffet we went to sleep with the memories of the ride tantalisingly fresh in our mind and hopes and expectations for the next day's ride teasing us away from sleep. Our fellow xBHP'ians from Coimbatore had arrived and riders from Bangalore were expected in the morning. Thanks to the resourcefulness of ever wise Lijok, our nerves were smoothed by generous measures of the Royal Uncle's Medicine and Mallya's Finest.

Thus ended day one of the Inter State Get ToGether, Wayanad a day of much frustrations and ultimately much joy for me, a novice group rider.

Fanatical Activism

Today we are blessed with a society which is getting progressively more and more aware of various issues and its impacts. A generation of youth with an acute sense of social responsibility are out there being activists of various causes. Be it Democracy, Anti Corruption, Environment, anything, today we have champions for these causes spreading awareness on these issues. In many ways these youth are very much like the bards and ascetics of the past.
In our hallowed history several are the movements that were nurtured and carried forward by these wandering bards and activists, who forsaking the luxuries of a settled life lived a nomadic life with their sole aim being the spreading of their cause. It may be heroic and noble tales of some particular king or warrior or it may be the advocacy of a certain set of beliefs and values. Either way they were activists spreading the word of social awakening. While these bards and ascetics had to mostlt resort to the fabric of religion to portray their causes, today's activists are no longer shackled by such limitations.
However there is one thing that today's activists forget when advocating their causes : logic and reason. Of late I have been involved in several discussions with activists which have all invariably turned heated. Some how the Bush diktat of "Either you are with us, or against us" has been adopted as the war cry by these activists. These activists in their extreme exuberance forget that their causes get tarnished when they resort to such narrow minded attitudes.
Personally I am the farthest you can ever be from being a person of social conscience. I do not think I have any philanthropic tendencies, I also find selfless activism to be distasteful as far as I am concerned. I would be the last person you would see giving alms to a beggar. My life revolves around myself, my family, my friends in an expanding radius of diminishing value attributed. Frankly it is because I can not afford to do anything else. How can I fend for the well being of some distant tribals in some distant village or some endangered forest or the freedom of some unjustly punished person when my own immediate environs is far from secure? Yes, it is a an extremely conceited world view but also one reason I genuinely admire activists who throw away shackles of career or any routine luxuries for the advocacy of their beliefs. In fact  I consider myself to be the perfect layman, the sort of person these activists ought to convince for their advocacy to be a success.
But that is precisely where these new generation activists fail. Recently I had been part of a discussion on the Jaitapur Nuclear Park controversy. An esteemed activist, who was my junior in college started the discussion on the evils of nuclear power. Rightly so I concurred with him on the perils of nuclear power but also said about how we dont have any alternative.  I pointed out to him that of the energy sources in the world 65% of power is derived from thermal sources (coal and oil), 20% from nuclear power and only around 15% from renewable power of which a lion's share is provided by hydroelectric power and less than 0.1% by solar power and wind power. The activist friend of mine was of the opinion that development ought to be sacrificed for the sake of cleaner environment. There the contention ensued which resulted in him calling me a troll for "refusing to understand" the dangers of nuclear power and me ultimately cutting off contacts with him for the douchebaggery.
Then there was the other environmental activist friend who considered loss of human lives an acceptable price to pay for environmental protection. He did realize in time that fanatism in his advocacy had caused his aims which are extremely philanthropic in nature to be advocated as extremely misanthropic.
The point however remains, what merit is there in the advocacy that we should stop development? How much credence can we give to such statements made by people who are unaware of the part electric power plays in their daily lives? I mean how much longer would it take for the 0.1% to supplant the 20%? Meanwhile these activists want to condemn the very people whose well being they are advocating to arrested development. Dont they realize that healthcare, communication, transportation - all these facilities that are every day improving the lives of thousands of unprivileged are all through power? Will these activists dare to go for a month without any dependancy on electric power -  and that includes not using any product made by electricity too. I wont call them arm chair activists, because they do go out there and preach, but do these urban activists really realize what rustic hardships really mean?
Even in the latest Jan Lokpal issue, fanatic supporters of the Lokpal bill consider any person expressing a difference of opinion as a supporter and promoter of the systemic corruption. Thousands of people have mobilized all over India to support the Jan Lokpal bill, unfortunately not even 0.1% of them might have really understood its implications. Those of us who challenge its terms and question its efficiency are labelled "unpatriotic". Meh. Screw them! After all it is because they do not have reason and logic to back up their claims that they are getting caustic!
Basically I have only one thing to tell to my activist friends - learn from the bards and ascetics. Those activists from the past, who have been instrumental in such social changes as the propagation of Ashoka's diktats, the social awakenings brought upon through Buddhism, Jainism, Hinduism, Christianity and Islam achieved their causes not by antagonizing the lay persons through fanatic preaching but by engaging them with logic and reason. I hope that my activist friends, at least those who are in it as a life's work and not just a fashion fad, would consider this advice strongly.

If not you would end up causing the greatest ever harm to the cause you are propagating.

Jan Lok Pal Bill - Glaring Idiocies

Really sad to see the hype of Jan Lokpal Bill that has enthralled our nation in a Pied Piper effect.

Having read the broad ambits of the Jan Lokpabl bill that is being promulgated by Anna Hazare, Shanti Bhushan and others, there are some very massive questions which are left unanswered and even unquestioned.

1. The claim that every investigation would be conducted within one year.

Crime investigation, especially anti corruption investigation does not happen with magic. There is a great deal of investigative effort required. If EVERY case registered in an year is to be fully investigated in an year itself, there would be the need for a massive bureaucracy that would trump ANY existing bureaucracy. Such a vast bureaucracy would have its own corruption and slow downs.

2. The claim that every case would be brought to trial and trial completed within one year. 

How is Jan Lokpal going to accomplish this without massively increasing the numerical strength of our judiciary and its support staff? Is this claim anything more than absolute hogwash?

3. The proposal that Lok Pal would consist of a committee of equal numbers of elected politicians and equal number of civil society luminaries and a Lok Pal / National Ombudsman who would be the Chairman of Committee and would be a civil society representative.

Who selects the Civil Soiety luminaries? The elite choosing the next of the elite? And what is the criterion for being these civil society luminaries? Nobel laureate? Bharat Ratna? These are not awards of statesmanship. Can an Einstein govern a nation? No. People who are good at one thing should not ever be considered to be experts at everything else. If it happens, they crash and burn, for eg: Manmohan Singh and his reputation.

Now some of my own questions:

1. What is there to ensure that there wont be corruption in Lok Pal and Lok Ayukta?

There are allegations aplenty that the Lok Ayukta of Karnataka, the much exalted Ombudsman, Santhosh Hegde is quite unparalleled in his levels of corruption. Let us not forget that Supreme Court, that last bastion of hope for our people has been recently been exposed for its corruption in the form of the scandals involving Retd SC Judge KG Balakrishnan. This corruption has more or less resulted from the ZERO accountability. This Lok Pal would be even less accountable to the people of India. 

2. What after Anna Hazare and the pious brigade?

The present leaders of Lok Pal movement are without doubt pillars of integrity. Anna Hazare, Kiran Bedi, Sri Sri Ravi Shankar etc. However what would happen to the institution of Lok Pal once these people with proven stature are no more? Our nation is not one of a single generation. Its institutions have to last for generations. Depending on the piety and integrity of its members have brought failure to many institutions like US Constitution and of course our own Constitution.

The supremely intelligent Constitution drafted by BR Ambedkar was soon corrupted and eroded by Nehru and sycophants, a fact which we should never forget in the context of Lok Pal . Any human institution is vulnerable for corruption, even one as unaccountable as this one.

3. So what to do to stop corruption?

Nothing. Corruption would never be eliminated in entirety, we can just reduce it and increase its deterrence. We have a good theoretical model that is very poorly implemented. What we need a systemic overhaul. What we are suffering is not a tumor in one area but a disease that has spread throughout the body. We dont need an instrument of cauterization, what we need is an effective medicine that would burn out the disease from the entire body. We need a profound change in our political system, a change which I do not know how to bring about.

Urumi - A review

Yesterday along with two friends I went to watch Urumi - the new epic saga film made by Sangeeth Sivan. Having gone with lots of expectations some of them attained fruition, while some measure of disappointment had been there too.

The starting minutes of the movie were simply superb. The styles of narration, the way the movie went to the flashback were simply superb. However as the movie progressed on jarring fault within the movie became more and more evident - TOO MUCH SONGS. It seems there is a song whenever a character sneezed! There is also a song when the character is not sneezing! Some of the characters were totally unnecessary like Vidya Balan's supposed role as a mystical Mukkom, a devi deity who in an oracle like fashion prods the hero towards greatness. Despite the prophecy not becoming true at all, the even worse part is the totally unnecessary song and dance number created just so that the audiences could be horrified at the sight of a swerving and gyrating Vidya Balan in some feeble imitation of erotic dancing. The video work is good, songs are passable, but the horror of Vidya Balan's dances? The Mukkom prophesied that the hero, Kelu would become the King of Chirakkal and his friend Vavvaali would become the General of armies, two prophecies which never came into fruition.

Overall in hindsight the plot is pretty good, because 8 hours after you watch the movie, especially after a sleep which helps forget the greatest horrors one is left with only the better memories of the movie. The usual ideological hero uniting the masses battling oppression, the son growing up seeking vengeance on the murder of his son, the usual treacheries and backstabbing of power, the reformed despot being murdered off just when he turns benign, frankly these kind of plot twists are quite a plenty in Indian cinema. However the redeeming part is the role played by Genelia D'Souza, that of the Arakkal Princess, Aysha. The role she portrayed was a fresh one and it was quite well played by her. Her fight scenes were an absolute visual delight.

The hero, Kelu Nayanar portrayed by Prithviraj starts out as an ideological warrior who is out on a quest of vengeance. One of the biggest ideologies he spouts quite frequently is that "women and children are never to be harmed." This ideology even caused him to let a pregnant rabbit go free, because she was carrying children. But this however did not cause him to raise a finger of protest as the Arakkal Palace was sacked by his "allies" nor when the womenfolk of Arakkal were brought as sex slaves to the Chirakkal Palace. Sure he rescued some women but references to some women already being distributed as bounty to the victorious soldiers of Chirakkal bring out the hollowness in the hero's ideology. Despite knowing pretty well the heinous intentions of the Chirakkal King and the paedophilic inclination of the Chirakkal Prince towards a little girl from Arakkal family, the hero watches on mutely. Is his silent refusal not to partake in the spoils offered by the King his idealism? Or should he have as a true leader protected these women? The fact that the "hero" was spurned into saving these hapless women only after the little girl was brutalized by the Prince further renders asunder the hero's credentials.

Apart from this huge flaw in plotline rest of the movie is more or less good. The battle scenes are reminiscent of the movie "300" and quite well taken too. Technically this movie is impeccable. Nearly the two hour mark of watching the movie one also realizes that this movie could very well be an advertisement for Yoga. Every single thing these guys do is through some stylized yoga or kalari posture. Sure some dances could be choreographed through this manner, but every single song and dance number? At one point it stops being charming and becomes seriously irritating. Context, my dear sirs, context.

Plot wise another thing of note is the historical references. The references are quite well researched and despite not being very knowledgeable about Kerala History, I am impressed. There are several references to the Kingdom of Cochin or Perumbadapppu Swaroopam, and of the Cheraman Perumal legend.

It is here that I find myself ideologically opposed to the premise of the story. The Perumpadappu Swaroopam has been portrayed unflatteringly as lackeys of Portuguese. Sure Perumpadappu is best known for its diplomacy but its success is principally because of the onus on Raja Dharma. The first and foremost consideration for any ruler is the well being of his citizens. For the well being of the citizens any amount of compromise by the ruler personally is acceptable. When weak seek alliances, when strong project power - that is the rule of statecraft. Ideologies like protecting of the weak, abolishment of excessive taxation etc can only be followed if one has the power to enforce it. Otherwise it would be a myopic vision.

Sure the premise of this movie is popular, weak uniting against oppression but at the end of the day the lesson I would take from this story is that the silly ideologue is dead, those who placed trust in his myopic vision crushed, but Perumpadappu and those who bet on it for survival lasting prosperously through the centuries.


At the end of the day, Urumi is a must watch movie. With exceptional cinematography this is a movie of unparalleled technical brilliance in Malayalam cinema. Reasonably well taken, reasonably well laid and reasonably well casted, this movie is worth watching in a cinema theater, at least for the sheer visual and sound effects of it. Here is to the hope that in his next movie Sangeeth Sivan directs there would be less masala content and more substance!

Cheers!

Return from Bangalore

If you ask me I would say that driving 560 kilometers from Cochin to Bangalore or vice versa is much much easier than driving 56 kilometers within Bangalore City. Though I am no novice to the insane roads and traffic of Bangalore City, the 75 odd kilometers I had to drive on February 11th  came very near to extinguishing my love for driving. The only thing that sustained me during that day was the prospect of Aero India 2011 and the pleasure of riding back home in a day.

Reaching the Yelehanka Air Force Base at around 0815 in the morning and thanks to Mr. Justin of Indian Air Force me and my friend Krishnanjan arrived in time at the exhibition grounds. The vast spaces were filled with scores of gleaming, shining aircrafts, from heavy behemoths like the C-17 Globemaster, tiny turboprops to the crown jewels of Aviation, the competitors of India's Multi Role Combat Aircraft competition - the Eurofighter Typhoon, Saab Gripen, F/A18 and F16. The new C130J Super Hercules of Indian Air Force, the Tejas Mk.2 and of course the HAL Light Combat Helicopter ensured that my mouth remained open in wonderment for long long stretches of time. The magnificent aerial displays by the combat aircrafts and the aerial acrobatics by the Red Bull flying team and of course the inimitable Surya Kirans was followed by an exhorbitantly expensive lunch and the perusal through the massive hangars which served as exhibition halls.

When we left Yelahanka Air Force Base at 1630 at the repeated insistence of my friend for whom the thrill of fighter planes had long since faded, I had spent nearly 10 hours continuously standing. After a short visit to my cousin sister who had arranged this lifetime treat for me I returned to my friend's place.

While driving back or rather crawling through the snail pace traffic of Outer Ring Road from Hebbal to KR Puram and getting kilograms of dust into my already troubled respiratory system I decided that I must cut short my stay in Bangalore. The ride back on Sunday would be too risky especially as no workshops or shops may be open on a Sunday. Besides I had to report to work on Monday, which would not happen if I did not have at least one day to recover. Thus angering my friend for one day cut short I planned to drive back on Saturday, the 12th itself.

If the onward drive was defined by sheer enthusiasm and energy and tonnes of curiosity, the return journey was defined by exhaustion, muscle pain and sheer endurance. Starting at 0630 in the morning my body was sore even after reaching only Hosur, hardly a 50 km stretch of the 560 odd kilometers between me and home. Insane crowd at the Adyar Ananda Bhavan on the highway ensured that I had to drive on on empty stomach for more kilometers but thankfully the Five Star chocolates which I had stocked up proved its worth. These chocolates gave me much needed nourishment and a palliative to a hunger which was increasingly making itself felt. Pushing myself to the next bend, the next tree, the next township till I find a spot for breakfast at this early time I was disappointed by a couple of roadside hotels by their lack of palatable food. Finally at god knows where I saw a hotel where some trucks had stopped by. The quaint and ancient hotel had comfortable stools which gave rest to my sore backside. A rather heavy breakfast of dosa, porotta and supremely delicious omelette later I was on my way.

The relatively sumptuous breakfast now brought on the next greatest enemy of a long distance rider - drowsiness. I had hardly slept for the past couple of days and the compounded exhaustion was making its mark while I was driving at a placid 65 kmph on the nearly deserted Golden Quadrilateral Highway. I did hold on with determination to my lucidity which was fully restored only after a cup of strong black coffee and a bakery in yet another god knows which place. This second halt had given me more energy and I continued riding on.

Driving for me, is at times a philosophical experience. When one drives for long distances absolutely alone, when one is completely at the mercy of the road it does feel like a microcosm. We all live our lives alone, with co passengers occasionally sharing our journey for short stretches like those trucks, buses and cars which drive along side us.However ultimately everyone travels alone, you start alone and you reach the destination alone. The real test during this journey is invariably that of our determination to persevere in the face of overwhelming odds. It is easy to hitch your fate to someone else's guidance. It is much more easier to take short cuts. Duking it out is however the real test. As a person who feels he has more than an equal share of troubles behind him and yet more ahead of him, it was supremely necessary to prove myself to myself. What better way other than driving on in this ride?

Salem passed in a blur of brightness as the sun was bearing down rather hard on the land. It was too early for lunch so I figured I would do my major halt of the day at the Aaryaas outside of Avinashi. Having completed almost 200 kms from Bangalore now my body was getting more and more sore. Hourly stops at those well placed bus stops that line the Salem - Coimbatore highway ensured that I did not wear myself or my bike out unnecessarily. The increasing heat of the day caused me to take particular care to not over abuse my Hunk. Contrary to the onward journey when I drove at a steady 80 kmph, on the return leg I had been maintaining a steady 65 kmph so as to conserve fuel as well as to reduce strain on my body. As the sun crossed over to the West I had passed only Erode and the hunger started attacking again. The tantalizing boards advertising the restaurants from almost 25 kms away caused me to really reach the test of my patience. Hunger, tiredness all contributed into me reaching my wildest psychological phase yet during this trip. However this wildness was soon conquered after a brief 90 kmph dash and I returned to my steady speed and with an immeasurable gladness took the side road into the Aaryas.

In opposition to my first visit to the highway restaurant when it was nearly deserted, the place was now full with lunchtime crowds. With a zombie like gait I made my way to the A/C room which was mercifully empty. After ordering the meals I leisurely shed my jacket, gloves and pouch and relaxed nicely on to the magnificent sofa. The adequately tasty lunch and nearly half an hour of rest I took in that hotel was an absolute life saver. After the room was adequately cooled by the A/C the power failure gave me yet another blessing as I was able to cat nap in relative darkness for nearly 10 minutes.

The food and the rest had made me a new man. With a veritable bounce on my boots, I continued my ride. The joy ride was over soon enough as I reached the Avinashi Coimbatore road widening stretch where the traffic and dust started making me miserable again. Having completed more than 900 kms over all I kept an anxious eye on the odometer for the 1000 km mark. The thrill of getting to cross 1000 kept me going through the insane traffic in this stretch and as the kilometers crept up Coimbatore by pass was reached.As I drove past the last toll booth of the L&T Highway and drove up the small bridge above a tiny rivulet I stopped my bike to enjoy the 999.9th kilometer of my drive. Downing half a liter of water to quench my extreme thirst I silently cheered myself. Mounting back as I drove the next hundred meters and watched the odometer resetting itself to zero I shouted my enthusiasm out. This was a milestone, a much cherished and anticipated milestone.

As I drove on from Coimbatore towards Walayar a sense of anti climax had set in and now all I wanted to do was reach home. The nasty potholed roads of Palghat Trichur stretch was ahead of me and so was the insanely busy Trichur-Angamaly stretch of highway. But there is no other way than forward so I rode on.

Crossing Walayar I tanked up my bike at a fuel station with a great view of the hills and with the aim of crossing Kuthiran before nightfall I was on my way. In this stretch of the drive my pace had been a bit more faster. Despite the heavy traffic a steady 80 kmph was maintained. The excellently warmed up engine and a well psyched up me ensured steady progress weaving in and out of the traffic before dusk sets in and brings  the evening panic on people. If my previous day's drive had made me complacent about the roads of Kuthiran this day's drive reinforced my beliefs with a vehemence. Feeling the impact of every single pothole and crater on my screaming, paining backside I maintained a slow progress up the mountain pass the mad bus drivers of this stretch giving me additional things to worry about. Stopping for a while at the Kuthiran Sastha temple my major stop came at Pattikkad Indian Coffee House where I once again stopped for refreshments.

As I left Pattikkad the dusk had set in and the night was fast approaching. Cutting down the throttle I maintained a more cautious drive henceforth. The Trichur bypass was negotiated in a haze of tiredness, headlights and flies and the Trichur Angamaly was a continuing test of endurance.  The insane potholes at the Kodakara deviation made me want to cry out in pain. A short water break at Angamaly was ineffectual in soothing my sore muscles.

As I reached my home and struggled to finally dismount from my bike, the time was 2030. The total distance driven was 1195 kms.

Though I had to endure scoldings and remonstrations from family, friends and other concerned people, though even now I am suffering from the resurgence of my chest infection, I do not regret this ride. Apart from fulfilling several years worth of fantasies it has also given me a new dose of courage to win against myself. I also proved to myself that I have within me the spirit of a tourer. While other people have been riling me for riding such a long distance when cars, buses, trains and even planes are available, I am already ruminating on the next long drive. It may not be soon, but it will happen, so long as the wanderlust burns inside me.

Garden City Drive - Day One

Three principal reasons defined my travel to Bangalore - Drive, Drink and AeroIndia.

As a passionate student of Military History and with an interest towards most things military AeroIndia has long been something I have been wanting to participate. The biennial event sees the best aircrafts of the world come together and is a showcase of cutting edge defense technologies. I could not get the tickets for AeroIndia 2009 and had to watch the flying displays from near the Yelahanka lake. This year I was determined to visit the AeroIndia in its entirety. Thus I had no qualms in dishing out 1500 bucks for a business visitor pass. Convincing a friend of mine to fork out the same money was also easier as he too turned out to be an aviation enthusiast.

Ever since I was transferred out from Bangalore to my home town of Cochin, I had been under a self imposed dry spell. Thus it was with great anticipation that I was returning to Bangalore, the home of Kingfisher, the land of Vijay Mallya - the beer king of the world.

The drive is simple. Ailing from a severe dose of wanderlust and an almost incurable desire for long distance biking, the 560 km drive from Cochin to Bangalore has been one which I have been musing on for ages and contemplating rather seriously ever since I got my bike in September'10. Having tested out my endurance in progressively longer stretches of ride I had put myself through a regimen of physical fitness to enable me to ride out such a long distance without any physical debilities. 

Thus it was that on the morning of 10th February 2011, I started on my drive to Bangalore. After a night of fitful sleep hampered by extreme excitement for the drive I woke up at 3 to find a home in darkness. The power was out, and so was the inverter battery so the morning ablutions and the last minute finishing touches to the packing was done by torch light. After a quick run to the temple to pray for my safety during this drive I finally got ready to leave by 0415. 

Saddle bags tied, boots and jacket worn, gloves on, engine idling for a couple of minutes, my drive to Bangalore started at precisely 0430. The odometer reading was at 5735 kms. I had filled the tank to the full two days ago so I was confident of a few hundreds of kilometers without a need for refueling.

The morning drive had been sheer pleasure. Steadily increasing my speed from 45 kmph to around 65 kmph as I left Cochin City boundaries.The good roads and sparse traffic at such an early hour enabled a very pleasant drive. Ripping past usually clogged junctions I soon passed Mannuthy on to the Trichur - Palghat stretch. Advices received from frequent travelers of this road indicated that this would be the worst stretch of the road on the way to Bangalore. However I found it a breeze to drive through and even the Kuthiran pass was crossed quite comfortably swerving past trucks moving at snail pace to cross the pass. Offering a coin to the Sastha temple at Kuthiran, the deity who watches over the travelers of this treacherous mountain pass. By this time dawn was breaking and I took my first halt in more than an hour to take two poor shots of the dawn sky. At the 2 hour mark I had reached Vadakkencherry.

A friend of mine had suggested Vadakkencherry Aaryas and Avinashi Aaryas as ideal halts for breakfast and lunch. Since the Aaryas at Vadakkencherry was not open at 0630 I continued on looking out for some decent eatery. As the dawn broke up into a bright morning I spotted a hotel near Kanjikode with a magnificent view of the sundrenched hills nearby. After a leisurely breakfast and a refueling I set out for the next stop. 

Crossing the Walayar Check Post and the final bridge on to Tamil Nadu I was as ever surprised at the shocking change of ecology from Kerala to Tamil Nadu. The dry lands had begun. Driving a bit more cautiously through roads being repaired and widened I finally took the left turning at Ettimada towards the Amrita College of Engineering. A nephew of mine is studying there and I had planned to meet him up at his college. Anyway I am driving down this road. What is a half an hour of deviation to spend time with family?

Literally a prison for its inmates, the Amrita College has multiple gates with sentries and a railway level cross as a secondary barrier. The inmate was standing near the innermost gate of the college and perhaps due to an inter collegiate fest, "Anokhi" being conducted there was able to come to a distance of 20 feet from the gates. While watching out for any wardens or sharp shooters looking to shoot down any inmate trying to escape, I talked to my nephew and was soon on my way. The time was now 0830 and within a short time I reached the L&T Highway bypassing Coimbatore. Accustomed to the dense traffic of Kerala's highways the near empty highways of Tamil Nadu were a welcome change for me. However the joy of driving down this level, straight and near perfect stretch of road was marred very soon on the approached to the town of Avinashi where due to ongoing road widening process a very long stretch of the road was under construction. Traffic was thicker here due to the inter city traffic of buses heading to and from Coimbatore, the short haul trucks working on the road project as also the long distance trucks. Weaving my way in and out slowly for some time I passed Avinashi. Though the eye was on the lookout for the Aaryaas restaurant mentioned earlier, nothing of note was seen.The grueling traffic hampered by road works continued for a few more kilometers out of Erode when suddenly the 4 lane highway started. Now this was a heavenly stretch of road, with proper medians, regular truck lay byes and even neat bus stops! Never having driven through such an excellent stretch of road before I revved my Hunk to a speed of 80 kmph. Hardly any jerks on such an amazingly well laid out tarmac saw me maintaining the speed comfortably. Nearing Tirupur I finally saw the roadside Aaryaas and after a refreshment and toilet break continued my drive.

The long stretches of nearly empty roads are always conducive to pragmatic and philosophical thoughts. When one is driving on one's own such a long drive is one of total solitude. While several people have questioned me on the boredom of riding alone, I have never felt loneliness in solitude. The only fear was that of any accident or mechanical faults which could leave me stranded in want of help, but that is risk I had decided to take, placing faith on God to keep me safe. 

The excellent roads, steady speed, sparse traffic, everything kept the ride eventless, however the steadily increasing soreness of one's posterior was starting to make itself felt. With a calculated progress of 50 kms in an hour, I had planned on short water breaks every hour and a longer break every two hour when I would give a status update to my parents. A delicious black coffee at a hut like roadside tea shop sustained me at around 1030 when I passed by Erode. From the plains as I neared Salem the terrain became more and more barren and the rocky hills scattered on the approaches of the Salem gave some interesting scenery.

Driving down the NH47's last few kilometers I entered Salem city at around noon looking for a place for lunch. The sun was excruciatingly hot and the shade of the hotel provided a welcome respite. A light lunch was chased down by two deliciously cool Maaza - mango drink and about a quarter of an hour of rest. Having learned from the manager of restaurant that the way to Bangalore was along the same road as I came from I soon set out for the NH7 stretch of the drive at 1230. The road was again of stellar quality and the placid ride continued with the warm food and cool drinks within giving a steady defense against the sleepiness of driving through such traffic free roads. If the Coimbatore - Salem stretch had been defined by the 50km spaced towns like Avinashi and Erode the 200 km odd road to Bangalore from Salem was defined by 50 km spaced destinations like Dharmapuri, Krishnagiri and Hosur. The drive past the barren rocky landscapes was interesting but the pain in the joints were becoming more and more pronounced now. The 5 Star chocolates which I had stocked up earlier served me well at some of the water breaks. Having read some books about how veteran soldiers are distinguished from novice soldiers based on the contents of their pockets, veterans would have pocket full of chocolates, the novices would have pockets full of bullets, and also having learned about the energy concentration in chocolates which are particularly vital in cold terrains, I had stocked up the chocolates to serve nourishment purposes in case I am in stretches of road with no eateries around.

Nearing Krishnagiri and entering the Golden Quadrilateral road from Chennai to Bangalore I watched with dismay as my fuel tank started edging near empty. The steady speed of 80 kmph which I had maintained from Avinashi onwards had apparently not been quite good for my fuel economy. Realizing it would be absolutely stupid to enter Bangalore City with fuel tank nearing reserves, I decided to tank up at Hosur. By now the legs and buttocks were positively screaming in agony and I spent nearly 10 minutes sitting at the fuel station to rest up my muscles. Leaving Hosur at 1530 I finally neared the outskirts of Bangalore at around 4 PM.

I was quite looking forward to the Elevated Highway going into Bangalore as the sheer prospect of avoiding the extremely crowded Hosur Road was quite welcome. The 15 rupees suer fee is a small price to pay to avoid what used to be an hour of traffic blocks to reach the Silk Board Junction. I did however miss the Silk Board Junction from where I hoped to enter the Outer Ring Road and instead found myself at Madiwala. A quick direction enquiry found me driving down the Sarjapur Road which was familiar to me from my days in Bangalore two years ago. The two years had however changed much of the roadscape but somehow through a sense of the roads which survived for the intervening years I managed to get to Outer Ring Road at Sarjapur Junction. A very literal sense of accomplishment had come over me as I drove past the Salarpuria Softzone and other IT buildings near Bellandur, the sites where I started my professional career. Though reminiscing about those days would bring me trouble from the heavy traffic it was with great joy that I took the U Turn from Marathahalli and drove up Varthur Road to go near my friend's office at Whitefield. At 1630 I reached my friend's office at Whitefield, tired, exhausted, joints all sore, and my face and exposed fingers caked with a blacking residue of the 560 kms of the road I drove through.

The final drive to my friend's house via a myriad of incomprehensible short cuts was naturally excruciating for me, but the prospect of next day's Aero India and the three bottles of Kingfisher Strong Beer I drank up at night gave a pleasant close to a day which was started with much anticipation and saw the anticipation bearing fruition completely.